One of the few frustrating things about our Quonset is water
leaks. The shell itself is engineered to be completely watertight. But, as with most well-planned projects, reality has a way of challenging the ideal. After checking all the bolts and
tightening a few, we were able to seal all but a couple of leaks. The remaining few were due mainly to small tears in the metal at the bolt holes caused
by over-stressing the skin in an effort to line up holes. After we made these
mistakes a couple of times we realized our errors and corrected them. But the
damage was done.
Our biggest problem was sealing leaks at the base, where the
shell meets the concrete and where it ties into the base plate. We were advised
to fill the void created by the shell meeting the channel with concrete, which
we did. We also used a heavy application of caulking between the base plate and
the concrete. In spite of this, when it rained, we had an indoor pool. We then caulked all around
the concrete where it met the metal. It still leaked. We then coated the whole
area with water-stop concrete, a kind of latex/cement material that is supposed
to seal concrete and bond to metal…it still leaked. We caulked again…to no
avail.
In desperation, I started researching ways to solve our
problem and came across a company called Hydro-Stop, out of Charleston, SC.
Their website (http://www.Hydro-Stop.com)
was intriguing and the concept looked promising. It seemed like a lot of work,
but we were desperate. I contacted the company, told them of our problem, they
invited us to visit and see for ourselves.
Hydro-Stop is one of those small companies (not yet regulated into oblivion) that offer a great product
and excellent service. We met with Perry Smith, Charleston Plant Superintendent,
and he gave us the tour. Fast-forward, we took home two buckets of Hydro-Stop
sealer, a roll of fabric, and a bucket of color coating. The rest follows:
Here’s our culprit.
This is the base filled with concrete, caulked, then coated with water-stop concrete. |
I decided to make a pattern and cut
out pieces of the reinforcing fabric for each base juncture.
My pattern was made of cardboard and I used a razor knife to cut each piece of fabric to fit the base plate shape. |
Since the product is water base, it
is very easy to work with and clean up after.
Manufactured in Charleston, SC, Hydro Stop is shipped all over world for guaranteed, cost-effective waterproofing. |
I simply brushed on a generous coat
of Hydro-Stop sealer.
'Generous coat' means enough to bind the fabric to the cement. |
While it was still very wet, I laid
in the piece of pre-cut fabric.
The pre-cut fabric pieces made the job much neater and quicker. |
I then coated and
saturated the fabric with more sealer making sure the fabric was completely covered and no raw fabric showed through.
This process works very much like hand-layup fiberglass--except much easier and with no smell! |
Making sure any air bubbles were
pressed out and the fabric was completed covered with sealer; I gave it one
final coat to smooth out the fabric texture.
The polyester fabric is very easy to work with and soaks up the Hydro Stop readily. |
Voila!
The finished job. Neat, clean, and effective. Our second phase of water/air-proofing the shell will overlay the top edge of our base covering. |
We have yet to apply the final color coat, but even after a
tropical storm and several heavy rains, we leak no more! All in all, the
process went quite smoothly. It took 10-12 minutes to seal each cavity. With 25
cavities per side, it took less than six hours to complete the project. The
best part is—we now have a water-proof Quonset!
Using Hydro-Stop to solve one problem has given us the
solution to another problem. Since we plan to use the skin of our Quonset to
provide us with cost-free air circulation, we need our structure to be
air-tight as well. Our next Hydro-Stop project is to seal our entire shell with
the same system we used on our base. Another bonus: we want to change the color
of our Quonset, plus give it extra protection against the elements. With
minimal preparation, Hydro-Stop bonds so well to the GalvaLume surface; it is
an excellent coating for metal.
Using the Hydro-Stop system, we can seal each joint, making our
building completely water and air tight, plus, we can add color to the entire structure!
I also faced the same problem. I also tried silicone caulk to no avail until I was told about quadseal. Its a tube that you can disperse from a caulk gun. It comes out best if you let the tube set out in the hot sun before you use it and you can find it at Lowe's or home depot. I didn't fill in the interior gaps of the base plates with concrete but filed with closed cell foam out of a can. I used a lot of quadseal on the exterior side where the base plates connect and even put it around the anchor bolts in and outside of the building. I also put down a good bead on the interior side where the base plates are flush with the concrete floor. Hasn't seeped since I applied. It works but if I had to do it again I'd do it using your method.
ReplyDeleteThanks. I appreciate your interest and would be happy to answer any questions you might have.
ReplyDeleteHello Quonsetman. I seen your article last year and did it just like you said. Even went a little further down on sides. Think it stopped some water but it still gets in. I think I will have to caulk all the verticle seams.
DeleteOther benefits of concrete filler: It's cheap; it's heavy and helps hold the building down in high winds...but that's a minor point, mainly, it's cheap. BTW: I put the concrete (Sakrete) in dry, smoothed it at an angle for drainage, then sprinkled water over it to set overnight--much easier (and less messy) than mixing with water first. Also, we're planning to waterproof (and camouflage) our entire structure with Hydro Stop. Watch for that story in a couple of months.
ReplyDeleteDid the project ever get completed? How are things going?
DeleteI was wondering the same thing. I hope everything is okay.
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Will you apply the hydro on the inside. I guess it sticks pretty well and the material you use is like fiberglass? Somewhere I thought I read if the building came in contact with the cement it would cause those contact points to rust. Good idea on the mixing. I already framed 20 ft of my 30x50 with interior 2x6 and put up white pine T&G siding so I won't be able to concrete in that part anymore. I also have a second floor up top. Looking real nice. I may stain the concrete floor this weekend in the living qtrs. Keep up the good work and like the details you are providing. Its very helpful. I recently got a wild hair and extremely interested in putting 3-5 ft of earth up against the walls. Calling a guy tomorrow to see if its feasible.
ReplyDeleteNo need to apply to the inside. Outside application does the job--and it is very much the same as hand lay-up fiberglass, except not as messy and cleans up with water! Concrete interaction with galvanized (or ferrous) metals can indeed rust, but sealing it from moisture (with petroleum-based sealants and caulks) helps. With that, you should not be bothered by oxidation damage within your lifetime. We did the same thing (internal structure) on the inside of our Quonset and are also using the 'attic' for storage. The outside waterproofing strategy works great so there was no need to concrete the inside cavities (although that would add weight to the base). Our ultimate objective is to house our motorhome inside so we only framed a 12'x50' section down one side. (see previous posting.) We're looking at concrete staining as an economical floor finish, also. Keeping the concrete floor exposed helps with our cooling system. (Let me know what staining method you use and how it turns out.) Piling earth against the walls of your Quonset is feasible with a heavy-duty moisture barrier. We're using an innovative insulation/air circulation concept for heating and cooling our structure so the earth dam idea might work against us and it would definitely eliminate our water recovery/cistern system. Besides, our earth is 90% sand and might not hold in place very well.
ReplyDeleteCould have sworn I posted a reply last night, but didn't see it on your page when I got to work. What is your idea for the water recovery around the building? Also for the hydro will you coat the whole exterior or only the seams and around the bolts? It's been so hot here in NW AR my top still gets hot after I sprayed closed cell foam on the ceiling of the second floor. I found a product called kynar 500 that is suppose to reflect the heat, so I'm thinking about painting the top at some point. I called a company about the piling earth and they of course wouldn't even talk about it. They said if you bought a building it would have to be 14 gauge and sign a form waiving your warranty. My building is only 22 gauge. He did throw out the idea of shotcreting the building over the two as a better choice. I would love to talk with someone that has had past experience doing it. Let me know if you know of anyone. I's a very interesting concept and I've been reading up on it over the last day.
ReplyDeleteBrad, I am have a 30x50 quonset hut that I need erected in NW Arkansas. Do you happen to have any contacts in this area they could do the job?
DeleteNice, you got this done pretty cleanly. Theres usually a bigger mess then Thanksgiving dinner when i witness anyone do this type of project. Keep it up Quonsetman!
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Due to the lack of exposure to concrete technology, waterproofing is one of the most important yet underappreciated issues. The majority of the time, it is viewed as a hassle rather than a significant issue. However, ignoring it will make the problem worse and leave your wall drenched in a flood, giving your house a horrible appearance. However, since it is winter, now is the ideal time to get your home waterproofed. Another advantage of waterproofing in the winter is that concrete shrinks in cold weather, forcing any fractures to enlarge. The crack sealing resins won't have to stretch if the cracks are filled to their full extent.
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